Tiles; admittedly not the main pull for a holiday with the kids, but if there were ever a city which utilises every inch of its landscape to showcase what ceramics can offer you, whilst remaining family-friendly, it’s the northern Portuguese city of Porto.
I’d actually argue, from my fortunate experiences in travel so far, that this is the case for so many towns in both Portugal and Spain (Read More: “I have this thing with Spanish tiles”) but Porto really is a celebration of culture which caters to anyone out there looking to visit somewhere visually beautiful.
One of the features which give it this status are Azulejos tiles, the name given to these stunning decorative tiles, most well-known for their blue and white colouring, although not exclusively so. If you want to add some more design into your explorations, and Porto is on your hit list, here is where you need to stop by.
1. São Bento Station
Probably the most famous displays of the traditional blue and white tile formations, this train station’s entrance is stunning – but fair warning, it’s busy. The station is still very much active, in addition to hosting plenty of tours which pass through this tourist hotspot, so be space-aware if you want to take pictures. Aside from the formalities, the tiles beautifully tell the story of Portugal’s history in the vast hall and as São Bento is reasonably central to the city, it’s easy to access and absolutely worth a walk-through.
2. The Chapel of Souls
Sat just a few steps away from infamous Bolhão Market and metro station, the Capela das Almas – or Chapel of Souls – is not a building you’re likely to miss. The gorgeous blue-toned tiles cover the entirety of this church’s exterior and due to the narrowness of Porto streets, you will get to see a real close-up of them as you walk by. At the same time, these beautiful but single-file pavements will also mean if you want images of the sights without locals going about their day in your photo album, you’ll need to go early. This particular spot is also a road-crossing so often found full of tourists and locals alike. I won’t embarrass myself with how long it took for me to get the above image!
3. The Ribeira Tunnel
The Ribeira tunnel, from a tourist’s point of view, is just another place to sit in traffic. But upon each opening of the tunnel is a celebration of ceramics. Upon one end – closest to the Luís I Bridge – is the Lanha Panel, named after the artist who designed it. It was a project included in a public art program in 2015 and the burnt orange colours radiate against the sun as it hits them. You can even spot it from the Luís bridge itself when you walk along the top, which I highly recommend you do. Opposite sits the more well-known Ribeira Negra Panel, a 40-foot mural laid on tiles, adorned in the more traditional blue and mirrored by the homes and businesses so well decorated on the North end of the tunnel in a variety of patterns. It might just be a road tunnel, but it’s a gorgeous little spot to walk through.
4. Steak’n Shake Oporto
If you’re a street art hunter, then it doesn’t get much better than this Joana Vasconcelos mural, consisting of over 8,000 hand painted tiles. An absolute riot of colour, the tile mural is probably one of the most modern must-see hotspots of the city, not with medieval or mid-century origins, but completed in 2017 and sits on the side of a burger diner, which feels like a perfect pairing for the 50s style black and white checkered details. I was thrilled to find this one!
5. The Art District
Whilst you’ll likely find beauty in tiles almost anywhere in this small but perfectly formed city, surrounding the Rua de Miguel Bombarda, there are cool cafes, art galleries and independent shops galore – and with it, their own trademark tiles. Through every gutter system, letterbox or shop signage lay a piece of art through ceramics, and it was a joy to stroll through. A real gem of a place to wander and appreciate things we normally wouldn’t.
I loved Porto! Truly, I did. On this occasion I’ve not done a full guide to the city as I was early on in my pregnancy and so took it easy. Strolling, photographing, and just enjoying family time. If you’ve been to this fantastic piece of Portugal I’d love to hear all about it – and tell me, am I the only one with a camera roll full of tiles?
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